GV 1189 
.H66 
Copy i 



PRICE 15 Cts. 



•m IF— ^ 




C. F. A. HiNRICHS, 



No. 29 to 33 Park Place, 

NEW YORK. 



+ 



t> 







It is scarcely needful to say anything in praise of Archery. It 
holds its place as the first of English sports, and is rapidly becom- 
ing popular in America. It trains the eye, imparls a good and 
graceful carriage, expands the chest, and gives plenty of walking 
exercise without fatigue ; moreover, it is equally adapted for both 
sexes. 

The Equipment of the Archer. 

The first thing we have to consider is what constitutes the neces- 
sary outfit for an archer — how it should be chosen, and how taken 
care of. Before choosing his outfit, the archer should find a good 
maker, and obtain from him a list of prices; having done so, he will 
be able to determine what expense he is willing to go to, and then to 
apply the following hints in choosing his apparatus. Let us, how- 
ever, entreat him not to sacrifice all his hopes of future success to a 
desire to get cheap things; let him rely upon it that things obtained 
at a fair cost from a good maker are twice as cheap as those whose 
only recommendation is their low price. 

The following list will show a&(?ii^ what is a fair price, and may be 
a guide to our readers in future selections. 



ARCHERY. 



EQUIPMENTS FOR LADIES. 

Fine Backed Bows, il4 to 

53^ ft., $4.50 to 6. 00 each. 

Lemon Wood Bows, 4i^ 

to 53^ ft., $4.00 to $5.00 each. 

Lance Wood Bows, 43^ to 
53^ ft. (to weight), 

$2.75 to $4.00 each. 

Lance Wood Bowa i% ^^ 
53^ ft. (ordinary), 

75c. to $2.25 each. 

Practising Arrows, 25 

inch , $1.50 to $3.50 per doz. 

Finest French Arrows, 25 
inch, (we can higlily 
recommend this kind) 

$3.50 toS5.00per doz. 

Old Deal Arrows, 25 inch, 

$5.50 to $7.00 per doz. 

Best Footed Arrows, 25 
inch., $8.50 to ^11 00 per doz. 

Best Flemish Bow-Strings, 

25c. to 50c. each. 

Quivers $1.50 to |2.75 each. 

Arm Guards, $1.25 to $2.00 each. 

Shooting Glove, 63c. to 

$1.50 each 

Tips for Bows. . . .50e. per pair. 

Tassel 60c. to 75c. each. 

Targets $1.00 to $7.00 each. 

Target Stands, $2-50 to 

$5.00 each. 

Bow Covers (green baize), 

75c. each. 
Scoring Cards and Tab- 
lets, Ivory and Ebony 
Prickers, &c., 25c. to 

$2.00 each. 



EQUIPMENTS FOR GENTLEMEN. 

Fine Backed Bows, 6 ft. 

$9.00 to 12,00 each. 

Lemon Wood Bows, 6 ft. 

$5.00 to $6.00 each. 
Lance Wood Bows, 6 ft. 
(to weight) $4.00 to $5 00 each. 

Lance Wood Bows, 6 ft. 
(ordinary), $1.50 to $2.50 each. 

Practising Arrows, 28 

inch, .$2.00 to $4. 00 per doz. 

Finest French Arrows, 28 
inch, (we can highly 
recommend this kind) 

$5.00 to 1 6. 00 per doz. 

Old Deal Arrows, 28 inch, 

$6.00 to $7.50 per doz. 
Best Footed Arrows, 28 

inch, $9.00 to $12.00 per doz. 
Best Flemish Bow-Strings, 

25c. to 50c. each. 

Quivers |2.50 to $3.50 each. 

Arm Guards, §1.00 to $2.00 each. 
Shooting Glove, 75c. to 

$2.00 each. 
Tips for Bows. . .75c. per pair. 

Tassel 50c. to 75c. each. 

Targets .... $1.00 to $7.00 each. 
Target Stands. $2.50 to 

$5.00 each. 
Bow Covers (green baize), 

75c. each. 
Scoring Cards and Tab- 
lets, Ivory and Ebony 
Prickers, &c,, from 

25c. to 12.00 each. 

Note. — Backed Bows are far 
superior to the Self ones as re- 
gards elasticity and durability. 



ARCHERY. 



The Bow. 

Bows are of two kinds. The s^?/" bow consists either of one piece 
of wood or of two dovetailed together at the handle, in which latter 
case it is called a grafted bow ; by far the best material for a self bow 
is yew, although a variety of other woods, such as lemonwood, lance- 
wood, &c. , are used. As it is but very rarely that we are able to ob- 
tain a piece of yew long enough for a bow of equal quality through- 
out, the grafted bow was invented, in order that the two limbs, being 
formed by splitting one piece of wood into two strips, may be of 
exactly the same nature. 




Fig, 1. 

The hacked bow consists of two or more strips of wood glued to- 
gether longitudinally and compressed so as to ensure perfect union. 
The strips may be of the same or of different woods — for instance, 
of yew backed with yew, yew with hickory, lancewood, &c. ; but of 
all backed bows snakewood backed with hickory is far the best. It 
has been a great subject of controversy whether the self or the back- 
ed bow be the best for shooting purposes ; we most unhesitatingly 
decide in favor of the backed. 

How TO Choose it. 

In purchasing a bow, it is always better to go to a good maker; the 
inferior makers, although they may sell their goods a trifle cheaper, 
are still not to be depended upon, and as a good deal concerning a 
bow has to be taken upon tvu^X—e.g., whether the wood is proper- 
ly seasoned, horns firmly fastened, &c.— a maker who has a reputa- 



4 ARCHERY. 

tion to lose always proves the cheapest in the end. Having selected 
a maker and determined on the price you are willing to give, you 
will proceed to see that the bow tapers gradually from the handle to 
horns; that the wood is of straight, even grain, running longi- 
tudinally and free from knots and pins, or that, if there are any 
pins, they are rendered innocuous by having the wood left raised 
around them. The bow should be quite straight, or even follow the 
string (bend in the direction it will take when strung) a little. 
Beware of a bow which bends away from the string; it will jar 
your arms out of their sockets, and should the string break, there 
will be an end of it. See that both limbs are of equal strength, in 
which case they will describe equal curves. The handle should not 
be quite in the middle of the bow, but the upper edge of it should be 
about an inch above the centre. See that there are no sharp 
edges to the nocks on the horns of the bow, for if they are not 
properly rounded off they will be continually cutting your string. 
Lastly, make sure that your bow is not beyond your strength 
— in other words, that you are not overbowed. It is a very 
common thing for persons to choose very strong bows un- 
der the idea that it gives them the appearance of being perfect 
Samsons; but their ungainly struggles to bend their weapon^ and 
the utterly futile results of their endeavors, are, we think, anything 
but dignified. The weight of the bow should be such that it can be 
bent without straining, and held steadily during the time of taking 
aim. The strength of bows is calculated by their iceight, which is 
stamped in pounds upon them, and which denotes the power which 
it takes to bend the bow until the centre of the string is a certain dis- 
tance (twenty-eight inches for a gentleman's, twenty-five inches for 
a lady's bow) from the handle. It is ascertained by suspending the 
bow by the handle from a steelyard whilst the string is drawn the re- 
quired distance. Gentlemen's bows generally range from 48 lbs. to 
56 lbs., and ladies' from 20 lbs. to 32 lbs. 



AKCHERY. 



How TO Preserve it. 

Many things will spoil a bow which a little care and attention 
would prevent. Amongst the most fatal enemies to the bow are 
chrysals (see Glossary), which, unless noticed in time, will surely end 
in a fracture. A chrysal should at once be tightly lapped with fine 
string saturated with glue; this, if neatly done and then varnished, 
will interfere but little with the appearance of the bow. Care 
should be taken not to scratch or bruise the bow. When shooting 
in damp weather, the bow, especially if a backed one, should be kept 
well wiped, and perfectly dried with a waxed cloth before putting 
away. A backed bow is always the better for a little lapping round 
each end just by the horn, which prevents the bow from breaking if 
by any chance the glue is softened by damp. A bow should always 
be kept as dry as possible ; when going to shoot at a distance, a 
waterproof cover is advisable. Do not unstring the bow too often 
while shooting; once in every six double ends is quite enough, un- 
less there are many shooters. 



^^^ ^^ 



=c=> 






Fig. 2. 

The Arrow. 



Arrows are distinguished by weight in the same manner as bows, 
only in the former it is calculated as weighed against silver 



ARCHERY. 



money, and arrows are known as of so many shillings weight. &c. 
The lengths and weights recommended by the best authorities are as 
follows: 

Length, Weight. 

For ladies 25 in. 2s. :id. to 3s. 3d . 

f Bows of 50 lbs. and up- 

I wards, and 6 f eet [• 28 " 4 6 "5 6 
For gentlemen. J long. 



Bows under 50 lbs. and 
not exceeding 5 ft. [- 28 " 3 6 ''4 6 



L 10 in, long. 

There are two kinds of arrows — self, made of one piece of wood, 
2iX\di footed, having a piece of hard wood at the pile end. The latter 
are the best for several reasons, one being that they are not so likely 
to break if they strike anything hard. The best, material for arrows 
is red deal footed with lancewood. 

^ How TO Choose it. 

The first thing to ascertain is whether it is quite straight, which 
is done by bringing the tips of the thumb and two first fingers of the 
left hand together and laying the arrow thereon, while it is turned 
round by the right hand. If it goes smoothly, it is straight; but if it 
jerks at all it is crooked. Then make sure that it is stiff enough to 
stand the force of the bow without bending, as, if too weak, it wili 
never fly straight. The pile or point siiould be what is called the 
square- shouldered pile; some prefer the sharp pile, but the other an 
swers best for all purposes. The nock should be full and the notch 
pretty deep; a piece of horn should be let in at the notch to prevent 
the string splitting the arrow. The feathers should be full-sized; 
evenly and well cut, and inserted at equal distances from each other, 
as shown in the plate. It has been much disputed whether the Bob- 
tailed, the Chested, the Barrelled, or the Straight an'owis the best to 
shoot with (see Glossary). Horace Ford, the champion shot, de 
cides in favor of the straight arrow, and our readers cannot do bet 



AKCHEKY. 



ter than take his advice. Tlie »itow should be carefully wiped each 
time it is picked up, and this not only to preserve it, but also be- 
cause the lenst particle of diit clinging to the pile will effectually 
spoil the flight of the arrow. Every care should be taken to keep 
the feathers smooth and stiff ; if attention be not paid to this point 
everything else will be in vain. Should they by chance become ruf- 
fled, a little warming in front of a fire (not too close) will generally 
restore them.. 



The Bow-String. 



The best bow-strings are of foreign manufacture, and ate generally 
sold complete; but in case any of our readers wish to fit their own, 
we will say a few words about them. The string should be not too 
thin, or it will not last long; in the selection of it, it is best to be 
guided by the size of the notch of your arrows. At one end of it a 
strong loop should be w^orked to go over the upper horn, the other 
end should be left free in order to be fixed on to the lower horn. When 
the lower end is fastened, the distance between it and the loop at the 
other end should be such, that when the loop is in its place (/.6., the 
bow strung) the string is, in a gentleman's bow, six inches, in a lady's, 
five inches, from the centre of the bow. Never trust a worn string; 
take it off and put on a new one — should it break, it will most 
probably snap your bow. 



ARCHERY. 



The Belt and Pouch. 




This is used for carrying the supply of arrows required in a match 
(three for u^e and one spare one), as also for hanging the tassel, &c., 
to. We would, however, recommend our gentlemen friends to do 
without it — it is always in the way, and the arrow can be carried far 
better in a pocket made diagonally in the right rear of the coat, so as 
to come conveniently to the hand, and yet be far enough back to es- 
cape the risk of the feathers being spoilt by the elbow rubbing against 
them. In our cut we have depicted a lady's belt. 

Grease-Box. 

This is a little box, generally made of ivor}^, of such a shape as to 
hang from the belt. It is used for the purpose of holding the grease, 
which some archers use to anoint the string and their shooting-glove 
with, so as to get abetter loose. The advantage of it is a matter of 
opinion, and so it may remain; if used too freely, however, it 
causes the bow-strine; to unravel. 



AK€HERY. 



Tassel. 




This is merely a large tassel of green worsted, and is used for wip- 
ing the arrows when they have stuck in the ground. If a belt is not 
used, it should be hung from a button-hole of the coat; it is an abso- 
iutely necessary part of the archer's outfit. 



ARM GUARD. 




Fig. 5. 

This is a guard for the left arm, to prevent its being abraded by 
the string when loosed ; it also has another object, viz., to confine 
the sleeve and keep it out of the way. It consists of an oblong piece 
of smooth leather, and is fastened to the arm by straps. In fitting it 
on, care should be taken that the ends of the straps are not left loose, 
and that the buckles come well round to the back of the arm, so as 
not to be in the way of the string; for if there be the least projection 
on which it can catch, your best aim will be of no effect. 



10 ARCHERY. 



The Shooting- GrLOVE 




Is used to protect the fingers of the right hand from abrasion by the 
string when loosing, and consists of three finger-guards, attached by 
strips of leather, passing down the back of the hand to a strap fas- 
tening round the wrist. This form of glove has, however, rather 
gone out of use of late years, most archers preferring independent 
guards, called tips, for each finger, generally fastening by means of 
an India-rubber ring round the finger, about the best of this kind 
being those invented by Mr. Buchanan, of Piccadilly. In the mat- 
ter of the shooting-glove, however, it is best to leave the archer to 
choose for himself, merely cautioning him to make sure that, whether 
gloves or tips, they fit him well, or he will never be able to make a 
good loose . The cut represents a glove. 
Scoring-Cards. 
These are made of various shapes and sizes, to accommodate a sin- 
gle archer or to serve for a match. About the best for private use 
consists of a circular piece of cardboard colored like a target, divided 
into three segments for three distances, and having the oth-er side 
printed to receive the score when reckoned. These are carried in 
little ivory frames for the purpose, the whole being about the size 
of a watch. A small ivory pricker for marking is carried with 
it. Perhaps, however, for ordinary practice, nothing is better 
than a common metallic memorandum-book, ruled for the day 
of the month, and vertically for the rings. 



ARCHERY. 



11 



The Quiver. 




Fig. 4. 



The quiver is a tin case somewhat in the shape of the^quiver usu- 
ally represented as forming part of the equipment of Robin Hood 
and his band; it is not now, however, used as part of the personal 
equipment of the archer, but is employed simply for the purpose of 
protecting the spare arrows. It is made of all sizes, to hold from six 
to three dozen arrows, Hnd is provided with a cover and lock to 
make all secure. The best receptacle for arrows, however, is the 
box which is now almost universally used; in it each arrow has a 
place to itself, and by this means overcrowding is prevented and the 
feathers preserved unrumpled. 



12 



ARCHEKY. 



Targets. 




Fig. 6. 

A targert is made of straw^ bound with string into an even fope,. 
which is twisted upon itself until it forms a flat disc, and then cov- 
ered on one side with canvas painted in five coneentrie rings, viz , 
gold or centre red, blue or inner white, black,, and white. These 
rings should be all of exactly the same widths the target itself being 
one to four feet in diameter. In scoring, the following value is given 
to the rings : 

Gold .... 9 



Red 
Blue 
Black 
White 



7 
5 

1 



When an afroW strikes on the edge of two rings, the higher is? 
counted , unless it is otherwise agreed upon. It is necessary to have 
two targets, one at each extremity of the distance fixed upon — as it 
is not usual to shoot more than three arrows at each " end," as it is 
called—walking over between each three to reclaim your arrows, and 



ARCHERY. 13 



then sliooting them at the back target you have just left. By this 
means a different set of muscles are called into play, those used in 
shooting are relaxed, and, in addition, a great deal is added to the 
exercise which renders archery so healthy a pastime; for example, 
ill shooting the national round, the archer walks 3,920 yards, or nearly 
two miles and a quarter, between the ends. The stands for the tar- 
gets are usually made of iron and wood, and somewhat resemble in 
shape an artist's easel. The legs should be padded or wrapped 
round with straw, otherwise arrows striiiing them will be apt 
to break. There has been, however, invented an iron stand for 
targets, so constructed that the legs present a very thin edge to 
the shooter, thus reducing the chance of their being struck by an 
arrow to the minimum. In some places butts are erected, instead 
of stands, for the targets: they are built of sods piled together, the 
larget being hung to a peg in the front of them. The target used 
differs from the ordinary one, and consists of a circular piece of 
white pasteboard, the size differing according to the length of 
range: e.g., at thirty yards it is four inches: sixty yards, eight 
inches; ninety yards, twelve inches in diameter, and soon, accord- 
ing to distance. Butts certainly abolish the trouble of stooping, as 
they catch all the arrows (except the very wide or high ones) which 
miss the target. The chief disadvantage of them is that after 
shootmg at a butt it takes some time to get used to the target on a 
stand, so that it spoils an archer for matches, etc. Another advan- 
tage of butts is this, that as the targets are merely made of card- 
board, they can be easily manufactured at home. In all cases, 
whether butts or stands are employed, the centre of the gold should 
be four feet from the ground. 

Instructions for the Field. 
Having procured his outfit, the archer will doubtless be anxious 
to make a trial of it in the field, and we will now endeavor to dve 



14 ARCHERY. 



him the clearest instructions for the management of his weapon, bj- 
attention to which, and constant practice, we hope he will succeed 
to his utmost satisfaction. It will be useless for him to overburden 
himself with accessories more than are absolutely necessary — they 
will only be in the way ; an archer who wishes to shoot well will 
find that the less he has about him the better. Besides his bow, he 
will take four arrows (three for use and one spare one in case of ac- 
cident), which he will put into his pouch or pocket, arm-guard^ 
glove or tips, tassel, and scoring-card. A spare string also it will 
be prudent to have in the pocket. Anything more than these is un- 
necessary in the field. 

Stringing the Bow. — In stringing the bow it is held by the 
handle in the right hand (flat part towards the body) with the lower 
horn resting on the ground against the hollow of the right foot. 
The left hand is then placed upon the upper part of the bow in such 
a manner that the base of the thumb rests upon the flat side of it, 
the thumb punting upwards. The bow is then bent by the com- 
bined action of the two hands, the right pulling, the left pressing it; 
at the same time the loop of the string is slipped into its place by the 
left thumb and forefinger. However, actual experiment under the 
guidance of a proficient will teach them sooner and better than we 
can possibly hope to do by mere precept. When the bow is braced, 
the string should be exactly six inches from the centre of the bow in 
a gentleman's, and five inches and a half in a lady's bow. Care must 
be taken that the string lies evenly along the exact centre of the bow, 
that it is not turned on one side at either horn. If this be 
the case, it will, by pulling the bow unevenly, in all probability 
bieak it. 



ARCHERY. 15 



Position. — It is difficult to determine exactly what is the besti^o- 
sition for the archer. Every one naturally subsides into that which is 
most easy to him ; still there are certain fundamental rules, which 
are given in almost every book on archery, by attention to which 
in the first place tne shooter ultimately falls into the best position 
for himself. The left foot should point rather to the right of the 
mark, the right foot being nearly at right angles to it, the heels six 
or eight inches apart, in a straight line from target to target, both 
feet flat on the ground, knees straight, body erect but not too stiff ^ 
face turned towards the mark. The body must be carried as easily 
as possible on the hips, not too stiffly upright nor yet bending for- 
ward. Nothing looks worse than a stiff, constrained attitude, except 
a loose, slouching one. Our cut on back of last cover represents an 
archer taking aim. 



Nocking. — Having mastered the position, the next thing to be 
looked to is the nocking. "The bow being held by the handle in 
the left hand, let the arrow be placed with the right {omr 
the string, not under) on that part of the bow upon which 
it is to lie; the thumb of the left hand being then gently 
placed over it, will serve to hold it perfectly under com- 
mand, and the forefinger and thumb of the right hand can then 
take hold of the nock end of the arrow and manipulate it with the 
most perfect ease in any manner that may be required.'' 
When the arrow is nocked it should be at right angles with the 
string. Some archers are accustomed to try to alter the range of 
the arrow by heightening or lowering the nocking point, but this 
is a great mistake. 



16 ARCHERY. 



Drawing. — Having nocked the arrow according to the foregoing 
direction, the next thing to proceed with is the drawing, which is 
managed as follows: Extend the left arm downwards until it is per- 
fectly straight, the hand grasping the handle of the bow, the arrow 
being held by the nocking end by the two first fingers of the right 
hand passed over the string and on each side of the arrow, as in the 
cut, care being taken not to pass the fingers too far over the string, 
or the sharpness of the loose will be interfered with . This done, 
the left a^m should be smoothly raised, still extended, until at right 
angles, or nearly so, with the body, the string being drawn at the same 
time with the right hand until the arrow is drawn about three- 
fourths of its length, when the right wrist and elbow should be at 
about the level of the shoulder. Having got it thus far a sligh:^ 
pause maybe made before drawing the arrow to its full length Cal- 
though we think it better to make it all one motion), which done, the 
archer must take his aim before loosing. By the old fashion of 
drawing the bow to the ear, aiming was rendered impossible; in fact, 
there seemed to be a sort of idea that no aim whatever was required 
for archery. This, however, is far from being the case; it is most 
essential to take an aim, aye, and a good one too, if you wish to 
meet with success. By drawing the arrow below the level of 
the eye, the archer is enabled to look along it as he would along the 
barrel of a rifle. As regards the direction, the archer will find that 
it is but seldom he will be able to aim directly at the gold. He will 
almost always have to aim to one side or the other, to make. allow- 
ance for wind , &c. This cannot be taught. The archer will soon 
learn by experience whereabouts on the target his proper point of 
sight lies, and will aim accordingly. He will also learn the degree 
of elevation required by his bow at the various distances, which ele- 
vation he will always give by raising or lowering his left hand, and 
in no other way, if he values success. 



ARCHERY. 17 



Remember ! the arrow must always be drawn to exactly the same 
spot. If possible, let the spot where the pile and steel join just 
reach the bow . 

Loosing. — Having drawn the arrow to its full extent, the next 
thing is to loose it properly, and this, although apparently a very 
simple thing, is by no means so easj^as it looks. The great object to 
be attained in loosing is to remove the obstruction of the fingers 
from the string suddenly, and yet in such a manner that no jerk is 
given to the string (which would be fatal to the aim), and that the 
fingers do not at all follow the string, which would weaken the force 
of the shot. The string should lie across the fingers at an equal dis- 
tance from the tip of each — not too near the joint nor too near the 
tip; about midway between the tip and joiat of the first finger, and 
on the others in proportion, will be found about the most convenient 
position for a good loose. The fingers must all be withdrawn at 
once, for should one be an instant behind the others, it would be fatal 
to the aim. 

It must be understood that, although we have described separately 
the actions of drawing, aiming, and loosing, no perceptible pause 
should be made between them: they should all appear to form part 
of the same movement; for, as Ascham says, ''Holding must 
not be long, for it puts a bow in danger of breaking, and also 
spoils the shot ; it must occupy so little time that it may be better 
perceived in the mind when it is done than seen with the eye when 
doing." 

We have now concluded this portion of our subject, and hopfe 
that we have succeeded in making ourselves sufficiently intelligi- 
ble to be of service to our readers. Let them always recollect that 
" practice makes perfect," and that we cannot make them good 
archers without great exertion on their part, although we hope we 



18 ARCHERY. 



have succeeded in making plain to tliem those first principles, with- 
out which all efforts would be but labor in vain. 

Clout Shooting, 

This kind of sport is so called from the mark being a clout, or 
small white pasteboard target, about twelve inches in diameter. This 
is placed into a cleft stick, and then fixed in the ground in such a 
manner that the lower edge of the target touches the ground. The 
distances in this kind of shooting are generally 180 and 200 yards, 
and those shots alone count which hit the clout ; or in default of an}^ 
in the clout, the nearest arrow to it will count; so that, supposing 
you got thirty-six arroAVs within a foot of the clout and your ad- 
versary managed to get one in, even though his others may not 
have been anywhere near, he will nevertheless be the victor. 

EOYING, 

In this kind of shooting there is no fixed mark, anything being 
aimed at, such as trees, gate-posts, etc. The winner at one mark 
chooses the next, and so on. The distances are usually from 100 to 
200 yards, and no shots count which are not within ^ve bows' lengths 
of the mark. 

This kind of shooting is only useful as a lesson in judging dis- 
tance, and was very necessary when the bow was used in warfare, 
but has never been much in repute since archery has been merely 
practiced as a pastime. It is rather an expensive amusement, as the 
arrows are so liable to be broken or lost. 

Flight Shooting. 

This is merely practised as a trial of distance, the winner being he 
who shoots farthest . Mr. Ford states that the farthest he has shot 
is 308 yards with a 68 lb. bow. Mr. Fro ward is reported in 1801 to 
have easily reached 340 yards with a self yew bow of 63 lb. 



AUCHEIIY. 19 



Dkbss. 
The dress of the archer varies in different clubs, l)ut the quieter it 
is the better. For gentlemen nothing is better than a green cloth 
coat, with gilt buttons having the club device upon them, and a 
cap of the same colored cloth, with a covered peak. For ladies, a 
green jacket over a white skirt, with hat (with narrow brim) and 
green and white feather; or the following is a very pretty style for a 
lady's archery costume : a white clear muslin skirt with a deep hem, 
worn over either a white silk or cambric muslin slip; Russian bodice 
of white alpaca, trimmed with black lace insertion or braided with 
black; sleeves tight to the wrist, as that prevents any awkward 
catching by the string; a pointed black velvet band and sash, 
trimmed with black lace. Over the left shoulder, and fastened with 
a knot under the right arm at the level of the waist, a broad green 
sash, made of silk hemmed at the ends. This sash is gathered into 
folds and fastened on the left shoulder by a, brooch of gold or silver, 
according to the taste of the wearer, bearing the badge of the club. 
Hat of white straw, bound with black velvet and trimmed with 
green and white feathers. This is a very pretty costume, and is 
worn, with modifications, by a great many societies. 

We hope that the foregoing hints may prove of service to our 
readers. If, in any part, we have not succeeded in making ourselves 
as intelligible as we wish, we must plead in extenuation the difii- 
culty of explaining by mere precept that which is not easily learned 
even by example. 



20 ARCHERY. 



iksiaiy of Ti^as Im^hj^i ia Amk%^f. 



AscJiam A cupboard especially constructed to hold bow and 

arrow. 

Back The flat side of the bow. 

Backed Bow. . . . One made of two or more strips of wood glued 

together longitudinally. 
Barrelled Arrow. One made largest in the centre. 

Belly The round side of the bow. 

BoUailed Arrow One made larger at the point than at the feather. 

Bracing The act of stringing the bow. 

Chested Arrow. . One made larger at the feather than at the point. 
Ghrysal A small crack, which, gradually enlarging, ulti- 
mately breaks the bow. 
End Each discharge of three arrows is termed an 

'' end," as three is the number to be shot from 

each end of the range in turn. 
Graf ted Bow ... . One made of two pieces of wood joined at the 

handle. 

Handle The wrapping of plush by which the bow is held. 

Horn The tip of eich end of the bow. 

Limbs. The pnrts of the bow above and below the handle. 

Nock The groove in the horn of the bow into which the 

string fits; also, the notch in the arrow for the 

reception of the string. 
Nocking Point. . The point in the bow-string which, when the bow 

is strung, is opposite the top of the handle. 

Pile The point of the arrow. 

Se^f Bote One made of a single piece of wood, or grafted. 

Stele The shaft of the arrow. 

Straight Arrow.. One of even thickness throughout. 



I keep constantly o^i lumd and for sale InrpJe- 
nients for all In and Outdoor Games. 



Archery. 

Aunt Sally. 

Air-guns. 

Acoustics, 

Bezique. 

Botany, 

Bowls. 

Battledores. 

Boating. 

Bagatelle 

Balls. 

Billiards. 

Backgammon. 

Bandilores, 

Boston. 

Baseball. 

Boxing Gloves. 

Bell and Hammer. 

Boomerang. 

Bathing. 

Books. 

Cribbg^ge. 

Cricket. 

Crossbows. 

Counters. 

Cup and Ball. 

Chess. 

Coins. 

Checkers. 

Chemistry. 

Charades. 

Calisthenics. 

Dice. 

Dogstick and Splent. 

Dominoes. 

Dumbbells. 

Dancing. 

Electricity. 

Fireworks. 



Fairplay. 

Footballs. 

Fencing 

Fishing. 

Flj^ingcone. 

Fives. 

Go Bang . 

Graces. 

Garden. 

Gymnastics. 

Glass blowing. 

Golf. 

Hockey. 

Hammocks. 

Hydraulics. 

Hoops. 

Homepets. 

Hunting. 

Healthlifts. 

Indian Clubs. 

Jackstraws . 

Juggling triclis. 

Jump-ropes. 

Jacks alive. 

Lawn Tennis. 

Lacrosse. 

Lotto. 

Lawn Billiards. 

Marbles. 

Microscopes . 

Magic Lanterns. 

Mechanics. 

Masks. 

Mill. 

Naturalists. 

Optics . 

Parch eesi 

Phonographs. 

Postage Stamps. 



Playing Cards. 
Printing. 
Polo. 
Puzzles. 
Pedesirianf. 
Puff and Darts. 
Photography. 
Quoits'. 

King on a nail. 
Roulettes. 
Hiding. 
Ririgolette. 
Rackets. 
Steeple chase. 
Swimming. 
Squalls . 
Shuffleboard. 
Shooting. 
Surveying, 
Solitaire. 
Skittles. 
Steamtoys. 
Sun dials. 
Sketching. 
Scottish Games. 
Skating. 
Tivoli. 
Tops. 
Ten pins. 
Treize. 
Traps . 
Turning. 
Tools. 
Theatiical. 
Trap, Bat and Ball. 
Wood Rings. 
Wax flowers. 
&c., &c. all other 



games. 



PRICES ON APPLICATION. 



.L'BRARY OF CONGRESS 



%0 020 237 119 A 




